by Dan Perkins
New Year’s Eve is arguably the biggest event of the year when you’ll hear a familiar pop and then the fizz sound of bubbles being released in small glasses, which will clink together before a collective, “Cheers!” is chanted. Yes, champagne is the drink of choice for celebration... but is it?
To understand where I’m going with this you need to know French wines, Italian wines or American wines are not described or understood in the same way (this is true basically from country to country but I’ll use these three as the best example). You see here in America a wine is known by its variety. In other words we drink chardonnays and pinot noirs. But in France they drink those two wines as burgundies. Yep! You read that correctly; a white wine in France is called a burgundy but not all white wine is Burgundy. They also have white Bordeaux. Why is this? Well in France a wine is determined by its region. Same is true for Italy but also is determined by its grape such as a Brunello di Montalcino (I promise not to get into explaining Italian wines just now... there’s not enough or time or space to do it justice). So, check this out... Cognac is not a better made brandy or distilled liquor in its own right; cognac is a brandy made in the region of Cognac. This is why champagne is a sparkling wine made in the region of... Champagne, France.
Years ago, the French government actually sued the US wine industry for labeling and advertising some of their wines as champagne. This is why today you’ll see American made bubblies as, “sparkling wine.” So now that you know this snotty information you can act like a true Frenchmen this New Year’s Eve and say, “No, no, no you silly person! You are not drinking champagne (use a silly french accent), you are drinking premium sparkling wine made right here in the good ol’ US of A (I know, you just can’t use that silly accent and say ‘good ol’ US of A’ at the same time).”
So, what to drink since the “good ol’ US of A dollar” isn’t doing so well abroad? Well, here are a few of my favorites. And before I go completely California on ya... here’s a surprise.
NV (non-vintage) Veuve Ambal "Blanc de Blancs Yes, it’s French but not from Champagne and it’s a steal at around 12 bucks! If you can find it; it will be a crowd pleaser!
NV Roederer Estate (from the Champagne producer States side) Brut Rose. Usually around $20 and always consistent! Lots of strawberry fruit and clean palate at the finish.
Domain Chandon Etoile (Moet’s American counterpart) Rich, yeasty and tastes more expensive than it is... around $30 will begin to compete for that complex champagne for twice the cost.
J Shram 2000 Brut (no French connection!) Schramsberg, known as America’s first house of sparkling wine, produces this as their premier bottling and it’s only the best of best vintages. Yeasty, with layers of caramel, vanilla and butter; yet not syrupy at the finish which these types can tend to be. My all around favorite sparkler - period! Forget Dom P. and get the J. Schram.
So, perhaps that can help you as you select a celebration wine (yes, champagne for all you Euro-snobs is still a wine) to ring in the New Year. And in case you get into battle with some wanna-be sophisticates; let them know you enjoy quality and value and raise your American, sparkling wine in an Austrian, crystal glass!
Cheers!

