Wine and Chocolate

by Dan Perkins

When you think of having a nice glass of wine outside of the context of a meal, what’s the first thing that comes to mind in the food category as something to munch on? Cheese, right?  Wine and cheese, wine and cheese... everybody loves wine and cheese. Well, not everyone. I like cheese but given the opportunity to have a chunk of cheddar with my Zinfandel or a piece of bittersweet chocolate; I’ll go with the chocolate every time! In fact I love chocolate chip cookies with my wine and at this time of year I utilize several good bottles to help polish off all those boxes of See’s Chocolates I got at Christmas.

Now for years we’ve been hearing about the wonderful antioxidant properties of both red wine and dark chocolate, that in itself should be good enough reason to experiment with the combination but truly it is the flavor profiles of both that actually work. Mind you, I do prefer dark chocolate over milk chocolate but the combination of sweet and bitter, fat and acidic makes for a hand in glove fit. The other thing is for those who are already on the chocolate bandwagon, with glass in hand, is to not over look the benefits of chocolate with white wines. Most people tend to think chocolate is a partner to red wines only because chocolate can be part of a red wine flavor profile (just read any notes on a well made cabernet sauvignon and you’ll often see chocolate as a descriptor). But look at what often is found as part of the flavor profiles of white wines, vanilla caramel, honey and butter just to name a few(because vanilla ice cream is white and chocolate ice cream is brown we subliminally think they’re opposites... let me be clear; vanilla is not the opposite of chocolate!). All of these descriptions used for white wines are flavors that either directly compliment or are ingredients for chocolate.

So let’s talk chocolate!

Great chocolate is much like fine wine. It should be hand made by a skilled craftsman or tradition. Mass produced chocolate has the same effect as mass produced wine. Cheaply made chocolate is a lot like cheaply made wine. Thin, unpleasant to the tongue and has no finish! A well made chocolate should have a high percentage of cocoa. This is why you’re starting to see percentages now on labels. A great chocolate should have a good reputation or report and a good reputation should lead you to a great chocolate! Again, just like wine... a wonderful chocolate should be served at the right temperature and should sit on the tongue and ALLOWED to melt! Melted chocolate (in the mouth – not in the hand) is what we like most about warm chocolate chip cookies right? You have a built-in melting device in your body called your tongue which happens to be the same thing which tastes the chocolate (wow... who knew?)!  And finally, a good chocolate should have a smooth, silky texture; which for wine experts, mouthfeel, happens to be a serious consideration when judging and determining the quality of a wine.

AND I know for all you cheese mongers out there, you would say many of the same things about cheese as it relates to wine.  But for this simple guy: If I’m gonna pound on the calories with my wine; I want mine to say... Valrhona not gouda.

So, any ideas about a good chocolate? Well, let’s take Valrhona for example.

Valrhona: This French made chocolate is actually made in Hermitage a wine region of France and is the only chocolate manufacturer which makes chocolate from vintage cocoa beans and regions. Valrhona is not a chocolatier (Godiva is a chocolatier) but does produce bars and this luxury chocolate is available for a pretty penny.

Scharffenberger: Again from the wine country but this time from California. This chocolate hails from the former sparkling wine estate from Anderson Valley. John Scharffenberger sold his winery, became a chocolate maker then sold it too... yep, Hershey... What you can say? A real American success story but the chocolate is fine quality and not as expensive as many of the imports.
But honestly, what you want to do is find a wonderful confectioner or chocolatier who makes specialized truffles or chocolates. So, here’s my favorite! Good luck getting them...

Poco Dolce: The bittersweet chocolate tiles are AMAZING! While my wife and I were on a trip to Napa Valley we stopped at Dean and Deluca to pick up our picnic lunch when we notices a lady standing by the counter handing out chocolate squares with grey sea salt. What?... I’m not one who is inclined to take food samples but this isn’t Costco and that’s not your usual sample; so I took one. The lady handing out the chocolate happened to be Kathy Wiley who makes the chocolates and explained the history and her love for her handcrafted art. I bought several boxes and now relish the fact I live in the Bay Area and can visit her store in Potrero Hill when I’m in the city.

However for the rest of you outside the left coast there is a WEBSITE.

So, the next time you have a hankering for something to go with that Pinot Noir or Pinot Gris go past the cheese, please and get yourself some chocolate!

Cheers