by Dan Perkins (My friend and now to be regular guest blogger)
It happens often, you order a glass of wine with your dinner and the server brings you a glass filled to the brim hoping to keep each precious drop contained within until it finally rests on the table in front of you. You may be thinking, "Good, they gave me a full glass of wine!" And I say... "Bad... bad, bad, bad!"
Several years ago winery tasting rooms were pouring their varietal samples in simple inexpensive 6 ounce glasses. At the same time glass companies began to market their specialty glasses in these same tasting rooms as the wineries began expanding their business into retail sales of accessories such as clothing to help further their brand. These glasses were much larger and elegant than the glasses used at the tasting bar and they packed a hefty punch at the cash register too.
The first time I tasted wine from one of these glasses was at a small boutique winery in Santa Barbara County. The tasting room attendant had just poured their flagship wine in the usual, $.95, mass produced, glass-glass with their logo etched into the bowl. She then said, "You want to try something amazing?" I thought she was going to pull out a special bottle from under the counter (which, if you're on your good behavior... usually happens, but more on that at another time).
Instead she grabbed a Riedel, Bordeaux Vinum glass and poured the same wine in it that was in the glass I was already drinking from. "Side by side, can you tell a difference?" She was smiling with a smug gleam in her eye like she had been keeping a secret... I couldn't believe it! Was I drinking the same wine? I asked to look at the bottle to be sure. Yep, same wine but it was much better in the big glass... That day I plunked down $25 for my first Riedel glass. My wife thought I was crazy, but today we only drink from Riedel and Spiegelau stemware.
What made the difference?
Several years ago, I was fortunate...
...to spend time with Richard Steltzner of Steltzner Winery in Napa Valley. He has an extensive collection of Riedel stemware and let me sample his wines through each varietal and glass. As he explained it there are two distinct reasons the Riedel experience has such and impact; first design and second, lead content. In the design, the glass bowl is shaped to "hold" the aroma or bouquet of the wine in the glass. It's also shaped to let the wine flow to the appropriate place on the tongue to enhance the wine's flavor profile.
Example, a sparkling wine and a Cabernet Sauvignon are tasted at completely different places on the palate. He also explained the 24% lead crystal content of the glass helps release the esters from the wine. The way this happens is to imagine the crystal like sharks teeth, which is what the crystal glass looks like under an electron microscope, and when you swirl the wine in the glass it is tearing at those esters releasing the aroma. The bowl of the glass then holds that wonderful bouquet for your enjoyment. Remember, most of your taste is in your nose! That's why when you have a cold and you're stuffed up you don't taste your food much. So, when drinking your wine... go ahead and get your nose deep in the glass and let it take in as much of the aroma as you sip the wine...
One last little trick I'll leave you with. Your nose, like much of you, has a dominant side. And even though you may be right handed, it doesn't mean you'll be right nostriled. But next time you crack open a bottle of your favorite... place your nose in the glass and tip it to one side as to only let one nostril smell the wine. Then move it to the other nostril and take a deep sniff... not only is it pretty obvious you have a dominant nostril it also makes for a great conversation starter at parties.
But remember you can't get your nose in the glass if it's filled to the
top. So, watch your servers and don't be afraid to let them know you
only need a couple of ounces at a time.
Cheers!
Dan's Interests: Theater / writer, actor, producer/director of various stage
musicals. Culinary Arts; won top honors at the California Wine Tasting
Championships in the professional category as an amateur. Triathlon - 7
time finisher of the Ironman, incl. qualified for and competed in the
World Championship in Kona, Hawaii.


One of my favorite quotes:
"If you don't want to really taste a wine, drink it chilled in a small glass."
Ray Kraus, Westbrok Wine Farm
I have two sets of glasses, my nice Riedel Bordeaux stem ware, and my Costco Bordeaux stem ware. I believe there is a place for both. At $20 for 8 glasses, the costco glasses are durable and still let the wine open up and are great for outdoor gatherings, when you might need something more durable (and 8 for the price of 1).
Posted by: CHAD | December 10, 2007 at 01:01 PM
One of my favorite quotes:
"If you don't want to really taste a wine, drink it chilled in a small glass."
Ray Kraus, Westbrok Wine Farm
I have two sets of glasses, my nice Riedel Bordeaux stem ware, and my Costco Bordeaux stem ware. I believe there is a place for both. At $20 for 8 glasses, the costco glasses are durable and still let the wine open up and are great for outdoor gatherings, when you might need something more durable (and 8 for the price of 1).
Posted by: CHAD | December 10, 2007 at 01:01 PM